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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to start building up my freight wagon fleet and fancy the idea of making them (with assistance from two nimble fingered grandsons) from the various kits that are around on the market rather than using RTR. The question is what recommendations do the members on here have with regards to manufacturers of such kits?
I want wagons from the 50's and 60's, mainly SR but I'm happy with the odd rogue, and whilst I don't intend to throw money at the project I would prefer quality over quantity. I would be happier working in plastic rather than white metal but would consider brass.
In addition, for kits which are supplied without wheels, what would be the best running gear around?
Lastly, I see from the sites of various kit suppliers that they market small weights, presumably to add to the wagons to give them more stability. Are these essential?

All opinions, tips etc would be very welcome
 

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Hi
As regards the wheels, I would suggest getting ready-made metal ones as the plastic ones supplied with the kits often need gluing together and as a result, most of mine derail at pointwork.
Perhaps the Dapol ones are worth looking at?
Hope this helps,
Ben
 

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For plastic wagon kits I would suggest Parkside Dundas, Cambrian, and Chivers Finelines. The first two come with wheels, for the latter you will have to buy Romford, Markits or equivalent and the pinpoint bearing inserts for them to run in. I have been particularly pleased with the quality of the Chivers kits; as an example he has a BR(SR) Lamprey which is very fine with small fold up brass detailing parts. As regards weight for wagons, I would improvise with old steel washers or whatever was to hand, and only resort to lead if space was really short; which may be cheaply purchased as code 5 sheet for flashing from a builder's or plumber's merchant.
 

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I can recommend Parkside Dundas kits as I've built a reasonable number of them. It's just like building an Airfix except that you get metal wheels. You need to take a little care when doing the sole bars as this will determine how free rolling they are afterwards. I use Slater's Mek Pak liquid glue applied with a Slater's brush. It's so much better than using a tube. Sometimes just a dab along a seam and it goes in via capillary action.

I fit Kadee couplings to mine so I don't know how good the included Hornby style coupling is.

I also weight them with "Liquid Lead" which I buy from Eileen's Emporium at exhibitions. This is /not/ a task for your grandsons! I use the NMRA guidelines for the final weight. This does make them rather heavy but my Bachmann 9F isn't too bothered. I'm not sure about the range of SR wagons as I have concentrated on BR standards and ex LNER so far. I wouldn't let this worry you too much since goods wagons were effectively held in common. This happened to such an extent that an LNER publicity photo for a new coaling tower has a LMS five plank wagon in the middle foreground!

The important thing for me is the variation in roof height and profile. Goods trains were anything but uniform before the arrival of block trains in the 60s.

Buy one or two and see how you get on!

David

<Edited after I was in the loft looking for something else and looked at the Slater's bottle to remind myself of the name>
 

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Paul Hamilton aka &quot;Lancashire Fusilier&quot;
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I have found the Slater's kits seem to go together ok, however the underframe detail is a little flimsy in plastic and so I am exporing different wagon underfarme kits for mine like Bill Bedford's and the like. Will advise how I get on in due course.
 

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Hi Chris,

Personally I've found the Peco wagon kits to be a good starting point. They go together quite well and easily. with better wheels (I prefer the Bachmann/Grahame Farish to the Dapol) and a bit of weathering they can come out pretty good.

Expat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks very much for all your tips and suggestions. They have be very useful and I shall order my bits with more confidence that a few days ago. No doubt I shall be back on here with more questions when I start work!
 

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QUOTE (dwb @ 20 Aug 2008, 20:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I can recommend Parkside Dundas kits as I've built a reasonable number of them. It's just like building an Airfix except that you get metal wheels. You need to take a little care when doing the sole bars as this will determine how free rolling they are afterwards. I use Slater's Mek Pak liquid glue applied with a Slater's brush. It's so much better than using a tube. Sometimes just a dab along a seam and it goes in via capillary action.

I fit Kadee couplings to mine so I don't know how good the included Hornby style coupling is.

I also weight them with "Liquid Lead" which I buy from Eileen's Emporium at exhibitions. This is /not/ a task for your grandsons! I use the NMRA guidelines for the final weight. This does make them rather heavy but my Bachmann 9F isn't too bothered. I'm not sure about the range of SR wagons as I have concentrated on BR standards and ex LNER so far. I wouldn't let this worry you too much since goods wagons were effectively held in common. This happened to such an extent that an LNER publicity photo for a new coaling tower has a LMS five plank wagon in the middle foreground!

The important thing for me is the variation in roof height and profile. Goods trains were anything but uniform before the arrival of block trains in the 60s.

Buy one or two and see how you get on!

David

<Edited after I was in the loft looking for something else and looked at the Slater's bottle to remind myself of the name>

I'd avoid liquid lead like the plague. It expands slowly as time goes by and will literally explode your model. It seems that as it ages it oxidises and lead oxide takes up more space than lead metal. Try and get some off cuts of lead sheeting from a builder (used for flashings) or some of those balance weights tyre people put on your wheel rims. Your local ATS will give you scrap ones for free. Use lead only in sheet or lump form, never as granules in an adhesive mix.

Alistair
 
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