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QUOTE (dwb @ 20 Aug 2008, 20:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I can recommend Parkside Dundas kits as I've built a reasonable number of them. It's just like building an Airfix except that you get metal wheels. You need to take a little care when doing the sole bars as this will determine how free rolling they are afterwards. I use Slater's Mek Pak liquid glue applied with a Slater's brush. It's so much better than using a tube. Sometimes just a dab along a seam and it goes in via capillary action.

I fit Kadee couplings to mine so I don't know how good the included Hornby style coupling is.

I also weight them with "Liquid Lead" which I buy from Eileen's Emporium at exhibitions. This is /not/ a task for your grandsons! I use the NMRA guidelines for the final weight. This does make them rather heavy but my Bachmann 9F isn't too bothered. I'm not sure about the range of SR wagons as I have concentrated on BR standards and ex LNER so far. I wouldn't let this worry you too much since goods wagons were effectively held in common. This happened to such an extent that an LNER publicity photo for a new coaling tower has a LMS five plank wagon in the middle foreground!

The important thing for me is the variation in roof height and profile. Goods trains were anything but uniform before the arrival of block trains in the 60s.

Buy one or two and see how you get on!


<Edited after I was in the loft looking for something else and looked at the Slater's bottle to remind myself of the name>

I'd avoid liquid lead like the plague. It expands slowly as time goes by and will literally explode your model. It seems that as it ages it oxidises and lead oxide takes up more space than lead metal. Try and get some off cuts of lead sheeting from a builder (used for flashings) or some of those balance weights tyre people put on your wheel rims. Your local ATS will give you scrap ones for free. Use lead only in sheet or lump form, never as granules in an adhesive mix.

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