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275 Posts
So far so good, I wouldn't dare show my first one ( a Langley LBSC Baltic tank).
Paul M.
Paul M.
Posts by bike2steam
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Joined
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275 Posts
QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 28 Jul 2008, 06:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the compliments. White metal was actually quite easy. With out trying to teach the art of egg sucking to anyone I found that the following aided things
a)Antex temp controlled iron set to 200 degrees celcius
b)well cleaned metal surfaces - several evenings were spent with a tray in front of the telly with the missus, filing off mould lines and flash etc and polishing with emery boards and papers
c)liquid flux applied at every joint - I use DCC Concepts Sapphire Flux from Richard
d)I wear latex gloves so my fingers don't contaminate the metal surfaces
e)I keep the soldering iron tip very clean, wiping it on the dampened sponge after every application
f) I don't try to pickup too much solder on the iron tip as it will drop off and be wasted
g)As opposed to brass and say 145 soldering where you apply the iron to the metal then apply the solder white metal is best done by applying a litlle solder to the tip of the iron and then applying the solder to the joint as a kind of tack weld. Then running the iron gentle up and down the seam where you want the solder to go tends to heat the whitemetal sufficiently to allow the solder to flow into the joint.
I will attempt some better shots of my processes if others are interested - well at least its a what works for me type of thing I guess.
Near enough spot on but instead of a) I use a XS25, c) I use Carrs Red, d) I use small bits of wood,cocktail sticks, and burnt fingers.At the moment I'm on my third Stanier Mogul (2 x K's, & a Nucast), next one is my second DJH S&D 7F.
Paul M.
a)Antex temp controlled iron set to 200 degrees celcius
b)well cleaned metal surfaces - several evenings were spent with a tray in front of the telly with the missus, filing off mould lines and flash etc and polishing with emery boards and papers
c)liquid flux applied at every joint - I use DCC Concepts Sapphire Flux from Richard
d)I wear latex gloves so my fingers don't contaminate the metal surfaces
e)I keep the soldering iron tip very clean, wiping it on the dampened sponge after every application
f) I don't try to pickup too much solder on the iron tip as it will drop off and be wasted
g)As opposed to brass and say 145 soldering where you apply the iron to the metal then apply the solder white metal is best done by applying a litlle solder to the tip of the iron and then applying the solder to the joint as a kind of tack weld. Then running the iron gentle up and down the seam where you want the solder to go tends to heat the whitemetal sufficiently to allow the solder to flow into the joint.
I will attempt some better shots of my processes if others are interested - well at least its a what works for me type of thing I guess.
Near enough spot on but instead of a) I use a XS25, c) I use Carrs Red, d) I use small bits of wood,cocktail sticks, and burnt fingers.At the moment I'm on my third Stanier Mogul (2 x K's, & a Nucast), next one is my second DJH S&D 7F.
Paul M.
Joined
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275 Posts
QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 28 Jul 2008, 12:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Nice stable there Paul M. I look forward to seeing how they progress if you can post shots I find I learn so much from all you fellows. How do you find the Nucast come together as they have plenty of nice old Midland Railway types that could be of interest for my EM layout?
Good luck if you can find them, not the best, be prepared to do a lot of fettling, but by the look of it, you're good enough already at that.The instructions are not too good, castings can have quite a lot of blow holes that need filling.But they are not the worst, for that I reserve Millholme,I had one of their Ivatt 4's which would have been easier to fabricate a new boiler. I will try to post some pics of mine.
Paul M.
Good luck if you can find them, not the best, be prepared to do a lot of fettling, but by the look of it, you're good enough already at that.The instructions are not too good, castings can have quite a lot of blow holes that need filling.But they are not the worst, for that I reserve Millholme,I had one of their Ivatt 4's which would have been easier to fabricate a new boiler. I will try to post some pics of mine.
Paul M.
Joined
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275 Posts
QUOTE (Expat @ 28 Jul 2008, 19:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Very nice work indeed LF.
I've been trying to pluck up courage to have a go at a Gem N Gauge Class 28XX 2-8-0 but keep bottling it.
I always thought low-melt solder was a must for white metal kits but notice that noone has mentioned it. Is there a reason for this ?
I look forward to seeing your progress.
Happy modelling,
Expat.
145 was mentioned, I don't know about the others, but I use it for general work, 70 for small details.
Paul M.
I've been trying to pluck up courage to have a go at a Gem N Gauge Class 28XX 2-8-0 but keep bottling it.
I always thought low-melt solder was a must for white metal kits but notice that noone has mentioned it. Is there a reason for this ?
I look forward to seeing your progress.
Happy modelling,
Expat.
145 was mentioned, I don't know about the others, but I use it for general work, 70 for small details.
Paul M.
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