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Hi All
The last couple of conversions I have attempted , I have used a piece of left over transparent plastic from a blister pack to mount the decoder on. Initially (the first job was a small BR24 with nowhere to mount the decoder , but the space in the boiler) it was to give the decoder a flexible mount and stay in place when slipping the body over the chassis. Also the double sided tape adheres to the plastic much better than trying to stick the tape to the loco's weights
Let me know what you think.

Fleischmann HO 4224 BR260
Installation of a M1 Decoder

This is an all wheel driven locomotive with power pickups on 6 wheels
The best method to disassemble the locomotive is to stand it up as normal
The 4 buffers hold the front and rear rails and the body too the chassis, be aware there are 4 little plastic Lamp covers which will likely fall off when the railings are removed. The body can now be lifted straight up.



Here is a picture of the "naked" locomotive.

,


There is a nice spot for and M1 or MC2 decoder without having to resort to milling of the loco weights. I chose to use the M1.



The picture above shows the view of the side of the Locomotive, Positive rail to the near side.
The Motor back plate was replaced with a Fleischmann insulated version.
The Decoder was mounted on a piece of plastic (from a blister pack) to fit in the space shown in the previous picture. Utilizing the motor mount screw to hold the plastic in place, this allows the weight to be removed without disturbing the decoder wiring. Fleischmann's original Black wires from the +ve side pickup were retained and connected to the Red wire on the original tag. The Black wire to the -ve (chassis internal pickup) was grounded to the chassis with the rear light. As the chassis is "live" from the -ve pickup I chose to run the lighting on half wave power.

(I Know Richard would not Approve)



Body back on , fitted with Profi couplings , the inside ends of the body was lined with Al foil to stop the lights shinning through


This loco runs very well on DCC with BEMF


Regards Zmil
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have just been given a present of some fine heatshrink (thoughtful Grandson)
in 4 sizes 1.6mm , 2mm , 3.2mm and 4mm
should be just rite for covering resistors and LED tails
so my next project will have LED's wired from the blue wire
I had done some previously but the only heat shrink I had was about 5mm and did not stay in place very well
(I wont show Photo's of that one
) and the earlier ones had lots of Electrical tape
(no shorts ,but look untidy)
If you notice I have left a little tail of the blue wire out so I can change the little blue loco as well later

It certainly is a learning experience

Regards Zmil
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi All
I don't know if anyone else has experienced this
This loco wired up as to convention (except the half wave power to the lights) works correctly on DCC , forward is forward , lights go on in the correct direction , without any modification.

However on Analog Control it works backwards to the other loco's
I'm not sure if it did this before conversion as I only had it on a short test track.
Is there a way to program direction for analog use? Is this a decoder glitch?
I rarely would use analog anyway and I really would not like to swap the Orange and Grey around ( as the orange is to short for that) so it may have to stay this way

but any other suggestions (nice ones ) would be appreciated

Regards Zmil
 

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<<Fleischmann's original Black wires from the +ve side pickup were retained and connected to the Red wire on the original tag>>

I checked this first (looked back at the photo's and the current wiring) thinking I had made a mistake

or...

Did you by any chance perhaps remove the magnets during the conversion then accidentally reverse them when you replaced them????? This will reverse DC running....

Richard

This loco was a second hand from feebay so anything is possible I will see if I can reverse the magnets
Thanks once again for your help
Regards Zmil
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi All
Turned the magnet around and it works the right way on Analog control now, but of coarse wrong on DCC
So put 7 in CV29 and changed the values of CV49 and CV50 around .
Now all is OK
I think the motor insides may have come from a different loco ( an E-Lok which are wired in reverse)

Regards Zmil
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi All
More Work bench projects

When I first started using LEDs I wired the resistor directly to the LED
and old school soldering - good mechanical join - makes a good soldered joint
created a hook in the resistor and LED tails and crimped them together, then soldered
so the LED resistor combo was a little large , compared to the existing lamps

New technique (after looking at Martins work on the flicker free lighting unit)

Pre-tin the connections and use a Lap joint



the "helping hands" comes in handy for this.
I used the DCC Standards colour wires (as I only have Black heatshrink)



I cut the excess Tails off afterward , having the tail in place , draws heat away from the LED - while soldering
I used a small amount of heatshrink to insulate the connections
The little lamp is the OEM lamp from the loco , to give an idea of the size difference



The second LED for the Rear Light



An extra bit of shrink to hold the wires together



That's 2 down 48 to go!


I did find that the amber lens "golden White" looks great when used as a direct light (with the LED protruding from the loco) but when used internally with a transparent light director it appears quite white -OK for diesels , not so good for Steamers
I may do some experiments with different colour LED's I have some pale yellow and warm white in "water-clear " LEDs to try
And save the Golden white LEDs for direct lighting applications

More fun to be had

Regards Zmil
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Richard
It just shows how long ago they were purchased! (from you at the train show in 2005/6 I think!)
I still have quite a few of those.

Drilling the top carefully sounds like a good idea

I have a few photo's of the loco I put them in and the mods to the lamp holders

The Locomotive in question Fleischmann 4064 (on my wish list since 1972, when I received my first brand New Catalog)



Once disassembled the motor was also broken down, lamps and holders were removed.
The original Motor back plate has been replaced with an insulated back plate, as the original had the -ve motor brush
grounded to the chassis. A plastic support for the decoder was created and held in place with one of the motor screws.



I tinned the contact points to make soldering easy



I used a left over LED tail (held together with heatshrink) , to create a support for the LED , utilizing the original mounting screw for the front light .



The wiring for the rear LED light was folded back over the LED and held in place (once again) with more heatshrink
a small piece of the original wire was retailed to keep the led in Place (more heatshrink)

I have some larger diameter heatshrink on its way , which would go over the lampholders more easily



The wiring loom was measured for connections and wires were cut to length, stripped and tinned ready for soldering.
I did not want to use the heat gun near the loco all resistors and heatshrink were connected before assembly



The MC2 held in place by double sided tape on a piece of plastic I cut the White wire about 2mm to short so the decoder had to be put on an angle.



The front light and wiring loom was put in place, the locomotives weight put in place,making sure the wiring is not
trapped by the weight. A simple test is to move the wiring back and forth.



The 4064 ready to go. Still needs a Driver and wiring disguised

Regards Zmil
 

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Hi All

I have been playing around with LED's and lighting in these Loks



The First one is an EPII BR53 with a Pale Yellow LED , Next EPIV BR64 with Golden White LED Third BR64 with a Warm White LED all loco use the transparent light directors from the light source to the headlight

I still have to play around with the LED's a bit to give a more even light

Any comments on which looks better?

Regards Zmil
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi Richard

I discovered that with the BR64 , The LED's are not very forgiving if you have them in a different position from the ideal
The rear light on the middle loco , the LED was closer to the Light pipe and there was less spill (once I had masked the inside with Foil to stop light shinning out where the ladders were attached)

I do like the golden white though ( I still have a few of them )

Regards Zmil
 

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Hi All

This is a DCC conversion I did recently

After seeing the comments on the the Trix SNCF 150x with the exposed gears and no detail in the cab etc

This is a Fleischmann 4094 Loco BR94 (manufactured in 1978)



The Cab has all the detail retained , the motor (the old 3 pole) is in front of the cab and mounted low between the frames and in the the boiler ) I put the decoder in the coal bunker behind the cab

I will upload some install pictures later

Here is another great little Lok The BR98.1 0-4-0 . More a toy than a model though

The decoder is just visible through the side window at the rear of the Cab



Neatness does count

Regards Zmil
 
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