Good morning and welcome to the forum.

Looks like you’re on your way, and on the right track.
Rule 1 applies, which means you do what you want.
As for it being on a table, do you use the table for anything else? Can you leave everything on it and not pack it away.
If you want another turnout and you have room go for it.
It’s a well known fact that loops are the best. 😜
Most importantly enjoy what you’re doing and have fun.
Ps. Here’s a photo of my layout.

 

Welcome 3igAnt,
You have built in a whole load of fun there and have a clear idea of what you want to do. There are plenty of helpful people on here, who are willing and knowledgeable, to answer your questions and are very friendly, too.

I’ve heard point-to-point layouts are supposed to be more realistic than loops. How true is that, and how practical?

I confess that I have never heard that [but that's probably because I simply never came across anyone saying it.] True / not?..... looking at models, that I have seen, some look good and a few, less so, but I can't remember seeing anything to make either Loops / Point-point any more realistic than the other. I've seen amazing models in both forms, so I'm inclined to believe that realistic is far more to do with what the modeller put out there. Just a point of view, mind.....

Best wishes, looking forward to seeing more.

Julian
Edit - P.S. - Quote [It’s a well known fact that loops are the best. 😜 ].............
I was typing whilst Eltonfrog Posted, I can't imagine why he thinks thaaaat???? 🤭 🤣🤣🤣

 

I guess the main argument against loops, is that most of us (in reality almost all of us!)
don't have enough space for the sweeping curves we see in real life.
But, it is nice to be able to set a train going and just watch it!

 

Hi and Welcome here we tend to call them end to end layouts and many but not all are based on real places and they allow a more realistic look for the space they take up. I would say that they are more interesting than fun. Having said that what you enjoy is what matters otherwise what would be the point and for a first layout having a go is how you learn what you have done so far looks good. But be warned this hobby can be addictive you might end up getting board with it after a time then wanting something more or different. Just saying either way enjoy. Jim

 

I've thought-up a simple design for a three station layout that would allow point-to-point (end-to-end) and continuous run. The simple trick is to have hidden point-work with lines coming-off and then crossing over (diamond crossing) but with a connection between the points the track branches off . so you have a through station at the front of the layout and two termini 'spouting' from the back.

 

Hi again Ant,
Great to see you have now set up your layout thread & from the looks of things have already made a very good start, will look forward to following future posts.
As has already been mentioned the Forum is a very friendly place, with lots of members always willing to try to answer any questions / offer advice or simply just bounce ideas off, as they arise - & they surely will
Anyway have fun & enjoy, there are lots of different ways to do different parts of MR overall so don't be worried to experiment to see which works best for you; there are also lots of very useful videos around from the likes of Charlie Bishop on his Chadwick Model Railway layout, along with many others too.
In terms of wiring & electrics you cannot go wrong with Brian Lambert's site, including useful downloadable how to guides as well.
Cheers for now, Norm

 

Thanks a lot for all the feedback This layout project has been a long but enjoyable journey.

I’m now looking into adding LED signals to my layout.

It’s a DCC system, could anyone recommend what type of LEDs and resistor values would be best to use?

On a side note, I recently scratch-built a telephone pole, I just need to paint it

 

It’s a DCC system, could anyone recommend what type of LEDs and resistor values would be best to use?

I'm guessing you will want DB style signals to go with the DB trains shown in your photos?

Warning: None of this is cheap!

You can get some very nice '1969' signals complete with LEDs and resistors made by MAFEN. Here is a selection stocked by Modelbahn Shop Lippe in Germany:
Accessory MAFEN, H0, DB, DB AG, Light Signals modellbahnshop-lippe.com

If you want to control these with DCC, you will need a DCC accessory controller specialised for signals such as
ESU 51840 Gauge Neutral SignalPilot, Multi-protocol accessory decoder for controlling signals modellbahnshop-lippe.com
or
Roco 10837 Gauge Neutral Z21 signal decoder modellbahnshop-lippe.com

If you are already using the Roco Z21 as your DCC control system then the Roco is the best choice because the control software already has programs for operating the DB style signals.

As an alternative, look at the Viessmann range of signals and decoders.
Signale | Modelleisenbahn | Höchste Detailtreue
Note that the more complex signals use 'multiplex technology' so you must use a Viessmann decoder to control them.

Viessmann also do the 'K' series signals which are a later design than the '1969'. You can still see the 1969 signals in use and sometimes see both systems together in the same station - eg Lunebourg.

If you don't want any complex signals, I think the Viessmann 4011
H0 Colour light block signal | 4011

would be hard to beat.

David

 

Hi, I can't help you with DCC, I don't know anything about it, but I love the telephone pole. What materials did you use?

 

Thank you very much

I built it using the methods I saw in the video below. I had some evergreen left overs, so I used them. I’m planning to make more, this time with evergreen, balsa, thin metal rods, and maybe even sand beads for the pin insulators on the pole

 

From the US point of view, "looking in" at the UK work all these fine folks and many others have done, I have concluded that:
If you want to see trains run, build a loop, and enjoy adding the scenery. Add a few sidings, maybe a small yard, and you'll have plenty of variety.
If you want a detailed operation with a specific industry, build a point-to-point. You can include a detailed operation within a loop and have a great time operating.
If you decide you want to display at one of the many shows around, a point-to-point is easier to transport. (In the US, disappointingly, most of what we see in the few shows about are big club layouts.)
If you get bored, step away for a few weeks.
If you get stumped, this is the place for help.

 

Welcome to the forum.

I'm also building a new layout using foam, it's my first time using this material, so I'm also learning as I go.

You've made a very impressive start, you seem to have decided the type of layout you want to build.

Regarding loop Vs end-to-end (AKA, point-to-point), it really comes down to want to do. Loops will allow you to run trains continuously, point-to-point is more for the modeller who prefers to shunt wagons in and out of say, an industrial area.
By looking at what you already have built, you can do both, so with a DCC system, you can run a train around while conducting shunt work, ie. putting together another freight train to run on the "main", so really the best of both in my opinion.

I see you're using several foam sheets. Are they bonded/glued together, and are the sheets attached to the table? You don't want to accidentally knock it and find track or models on the floor.

Rule 1 always applies as @Eltonfrog has already posted, it's your railway, so you can run whatever you like. I have both UK OO and N American HO, and will mix them up simply because I can. (Rule 1)

Norm mentioned Brian Lambert's site for help with all things electrical. Here's a link for it.

Electrical Page 1

Also, Charlie from Chadwick Model Railway, although both are UK, the same principles apply regardless of whatever scale you model in.

Chadwick Model Railway

The layout is a OO Gauge "Tail Chaser" based around 1970 in England.

www.youtube.com

 

1. There should be plenty of suggestions re construction materials. Google for options. Pros and cons.
2. Consider some small slopes in the tracks. ATM all track is on the same level. You may not have enough room for one over the other. However, raising some sections just a half an inch or an inch would make passing trains easier to see. I'd suggest 2% slope. Some use up to 4% slope. Real life is 1%-2% unless its a cog train, funicular, etc.
3. Consider wiring in blocks/ sections now. Even if you don't use them straight away, it will make life a lot easier if you do decide you need / want them. (Just make the blocks and connect them together. Later on you can unwire and add power lines to each section.)

Keep going!

 

Yeah sounds good I think I know what saying but like John I need a diagram three stations would certainly make for an interesting set up if they included goods yards and such but wouldn't that be quite long?

 

I will add one thing to Eltonfrog's list, it all depends on what you want and most important is having fun doing it.

 

I painted the pole and weathered a car to give them a more realistic look

what is your oppinion?

 

Think you archived it on both, they look good.

 

Hi Ant,
They look very effective very nice work.
The level of weathering looks very realistic & not too much as sometimes can be the case.
Also the detail on the pole inc the small transformer / bits of kit at the top looks excellent too.
Cheers for now, Norm

 

Very nice work, again, I particularly like the pole.