Hi

I believe Fairy Power Spray is the stuff to use. Spray over loco inside a plastic bag and leave overnight. Paint can be removed by a nylon nail brush. Wash yourself and loco thoroughly after use and don't get near your eyes!

Car aerosols are now all acrylic I think - I don't think you will get one to match because the colour is like a silver grey. If you can get a car aerosol you won't have any choice between gloss or matt - it will be gloss only. The best finish would be Satin.

You may be able to get a match from specialists like Phoenix Precision Paints http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/

 

They came out of Doncaster works in high gloss. It was constant deposition of filth and its removal by the cleaners that progressively took the finish down. Probably the best known in service colour photo (Colour-Rail NE74) of 2509 in the summer already somewhat weathered after what will probably have been a winter main works overhaul, some glossiness is still detectable on the paintwork.

You actually need three greys, the very light silver grey, a mid tone grey often described as 'darker battleship grey', and a charcoal grey; so look for a range that offers a useful choice of grey tones. A white undercoat everywhere the final finish will be the silver grey is a good plan.

 

Have a look through this list of car paints that I found a while back. Halfords grey undercoat primers are in 3 shades and would suit the base coats. Light covering keeping the spray can moving is the way to do it. Any imperfections need rubbing down with a very fine wet and dry. DO NOT rush the spraying. You can then finish with a spray of the correct silver grey from Precision Paints and mask areas that need other shades. If you wish to brush paint the smaller areas thin the paint slightly and buy a really good artist sable brush. Do not go over the area again until the paint has dried properly. Take your time allowing for coats to dry properly.
http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...showtopic=19986
If you want a gloss finish get a spray laquer thats used on cars. Check on the paints used before applying to the loco.

 

Where would i get fairy power spray.Never herd of it .

would normal paint stripper be ok

 

QUOTE (3raildriver @ 28 Mar 2012, 18:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Where would i get fairy power spray.Never herd of it .

would normal paint stripper be ok

Tesco I believe.

 

QUOTE (3raildriver @ 28 Mar 2012, 17:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Where would i get fairy power spray.Never herd of it .

would normal paint stripper be ok

Yes, Nitromors works fine on the diecast and tinplate Dublo bodies, don't use it on the plastic ones though.......

 

If you can't find the fairy product easily, try Mr Muscles oven cleaner, I have always found this readily available from Sainsburys/Tescos stores.

I put the part in a plastic bag, spray on the product, it foams up well, then fold the top of the bag over and clothes peg it shut. I have found the most effective stripping happens after about an hour. Then take the part out and brush the softened paint off in a sink using a toothbrush. It seems to work better if you keep the brush wet with water. You may have to repeat the process depending on the thickness of paint.

Same caveat as above with reference to care with eyes and skin. I always use rubber gloves and goggles. I have used this method on loads of stuff, funnily also on a Dublo Silver King as well, but I resprayed mine Express Blue from car aerosol (Peugeot Royal Blue IIRC) and renamed it as Kingfisher. I'm very pleased with the result.

Good luck with your project,

Mark

 

Hmm thought i had some niteross but havent so ill have a look when shooping tomorrow or the oyjrt stuff.The tender i wi;; have to be carfull as the top is plastic and fixed in and i dont want to separate it or i wont be able to fix it back the same

 

just to add, I have used the Mr Muscle spray on metal AND plastic for the last few years and have yet to see any adverse effects on the type of plastic used on models.
I am sure the plastic parts of the tender will be okay, mine are.

Regards
Mark

 

As I understand it, the caveat concerning use on plastic models applies only to Nitromors and other ordinary "paint removers".
If a model has any plastic parts (or is completely made of plastic!) I remove the paint when necessary using automobile brake fluid, DOT 3 or DOT 4. I found that some plastics get a bit brittle if you do this repeatedly. But unless you make several messes in a row of your repaint job, that's not a problem.

 

QUOTE (coramrail @ 28 Mar 2012, 19:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>As I understand it, the caveat concerning use on plastic models applies only to Nitromors and other ordinary "paint removers".
If a model has any plastic parts (or is completely made of plastic!) I remove the paint when necessary using automobile brake fluid, DOT 3 or DOT 4. I found that some plastics get a bit brittle if you do this repeatedly. But unless you make several messes in a row of your repaint job, that's not a problem.

That hits the nail pretty squarely on the head!

 

I was just woundering if the tender top could be removed and replaced.Its fixed by the plastic lugs through some holes and was probabley melted over ..If i can trim it back enough to pull it through the hole i might be able to replace it when finished and remelt the plastic over the holes

 

You would be better advised to use some contact adhesive or similar if it actually needs holding; and it may even be a tight enough fit that the paint alone will secure it. Ill judged application of heat and more than you want can go runny...

 

carnt find Fairy power spray atm but will look friday when out.Do model shops have black plastic rod about 5mm thick or anyone know where i can get it.

 

QUOTE (3raildriver @ 29 Mar 2012, 21:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>carnt find Fairy power spray atm but will look friday when out.Do model shops have black plastic rod about 5mm thick or anyone know where i can get it.

Not sure if all model shops will readily stock it in that size but there's a choice on ebay.

Hugh

 

Got the majic Fairy power spray so haveing a go this afternoon.If it dosent shift the old Hornby paint i will get some ordenary paint stipper

 

Well i was supprised it work very well.

Now what to do with the rest suppose id better clean the oven grhh

 

The loco body has some minor fetteling to be done .I dont know how it got through the QA with the casting bits still on and other bits like missshapen chimmy. Now to get the paint sorted.Do pheonix paints do spray cans .There web sitent mention it so have asked but not had a reply yet.

 

I am sure they do. Before that arrives get a light grey car primer and blow it over all parts to be painted. Take your time with light spray over to avaoid runs. Allow to dry between coats.

 

I have always used Nitromos and a wire brush to strip old HD metal bodies, with a dental probe to pick out anything left in cavities, Followed up with a couple of good scrubs in water, a wash with white spirit, dried off and blowed over with Halfords grey primer. Any imperfections have them been filled with Plastic Padding, tidied up when set with a scalpel and then painted. I have done several HD/Trix bodies in this way over the past fifteen years or so and all are still fine. As they are metal I have always felt that car bodywork repair materials is the most proven option.

 

I was going to use a isopon metal filler in the places were its needed as i have already have it.
I have lernt that the Silvers never run without there valences

so it means my running wont be authentic .oh

 

If i put some valences on the HD 3rail A4 either in plastic or Brass can someone give me some tips ,and How do you get the bolt heads showing where the valence are bolted on.

 

Check the front bogie swing clearances, on the Hornby Dublo three-rail curves, before fitting the valances.

 

Check bogie swing on tight curves the make up some cardboard valances , tack glue them with Copydex (it will remove easily) and try again. I suspect you won't be able to make them accurate enough because of the clearances on the coupling rods and bogies.

If all is ok make up in plastic card. For bolt heads perhaps the best you can do is represent these by indents using a compass point or needle point.
Paint, then glue on with impact adhesive or similar.

 

Don't forget that when the HD A4 was originally launched (in 1938?) it had valences (funny was looking at one of these models today). When the range was re-launched post-war the model was updated by cutting these off in the then current style. So putting the valences backd should be no big deal. If you fabricate them in 15 thou brass they must be thinner than the original (as long as you get the shape right). I would use epoxy to glue to the body