A DCC controller, puts out short pulses of Maximum voltage, all the time. If you place a loco on the track, without going through a DCC Decoder, the motor will take the full impact of that continuous high voltage. It isn't recommended to do that for any length of time.

The wise choices would be to buy a cheap analogue controller, or have a look at the loco, to see how you might fit a DCC Decoder [you could also take the loco to someone who would fit one for you, there quite a number of people who can do that for you].

J

 

Thank you for your prompt reply. I will buy a cheap controller now. Do you have any recommendations?

 

When DCC was first introduced, an 'Address Zero' facility was offered which biased the DCC signal to produce a net DC voltage, in order to operate a DC loco. Tried it once and it destroyed a large Mashima motor instantly. Don't be tempted to use 'Address Zero' is my best advice.

Identify the loco (Brand, catalogue number etc.) and you are likely to get good advice on how it may have a decoder installed.

 

Thank you for your support, it’s good to know that there are people who actually willing to help those less experienced.👍

 

It can be bewildering to start with. If you have the box or information sheet for the loco look to see if DCC Ready is written anyware. If it is there will be a decoder socket with a blamking plug fitted to allow DC operation. All it needs is to remove the blanking plug and replace it with a decoder with the correct number of pins. The complicated bit is deciding which DCC controller system to use. I use an NCC Power Cab which seemes straightforward enough. As above, if you are not sure what to do, seek advice from a model shop. They will be able to help you decide if you need DCC, and if so advise you accordingly and fit a dec for you. Hope this of help. Chris

 

Thank Chris for your prompt reply. How do I look to see if there is a blanking plug. Those Nice controllers are a bit expensive aren’t they. I don’t have a lot of spare cash, who does nowadays, only get state pension…😩

 

Hi again BL2,
Indeed nothing ever seems cheap these days, including MR kit.
If you were going to stay DC would strongly advise looking at a Gaugemaster DC Controller, they have a lifetime Guarantee & a wonderful track record / reputation - however are not cheap.
There have been quite a lot of secondhand controllers on some of the recent train auctions of late - just as a different option & also in terms of any maintenance / decoder fitting & other things; also at the moment potentially for a secondhand Hammet & Morgan DC Controller possibly - you might like to contact Pete at PlatformCollectables, he is a member on the Forum he may be able to assist; maybe send him a Message to start with - just thought worth a mention.
In terms of your current loco - as 34C has mentioned, if you post details of the model, maker & even better some photos, you will receive advice on its suitability for DCC conversion - if you take the body shell off the loco, you / we can see regarding the blanking plate Chris mentions too.
Cheers again for now & have Fun, Norm

 

Another route to try is finding a local club, normally very welcoming, and quite often willing
to give good advice, as well as helping you learn how to do things.
Where are you located?

 

Another advantage of DCC is that you can add sound at a later date - again at a cost. The advice to visit a local model railway club is spot on. Personally I would if starting in the hobby in 2025 only go the DCC route. The advantages are well worth the extra investment, especially if you are starting out. Analogue (DC) was fine for the 20th century.

 

That's told you Norm you old dinosaur!

But see "Hills of the North - The Last Great Project" thread on RM Web Forum for just what can still be done on DC.

 

Pretty much any DCC controller will provide good running if you fit a good decoder to the loco, and fitting a decoder to most locos is quite straightforward with just four wires - two to the track pickups, and two to the motor.

What you will spend on getting an adequate DC controller could be spent on a good decoder (£25 should do it, but the specific decoder required depends on the loco socket, if it has one) and a secondhand DCC command station. The Bachmann E-Z Command (36-500) can often be had secondhand for as little as £25 at online auction on a good day. You would be hard pressed to find a decent DC controller for £50.

Whatever DCC system you pick, as long as you don't spend too much money on it, you can trade it in for a different model when you have some experience and realise what you really want.