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Discussion starter · #141 ·
I am sure mount board will be ok, I have several card kit buildings and also the platforms are made from mpunt board and have lasted about 6 years now. Those are looking a bit tired though and will be replaced. I keep a dehumdified running for at least 8 hours every day. This seems to keep the temperature above zero in the winter. The water which is collected ( even during the dry time in June and early July ) is saved for the steam iron and of course, my live steam locos. No worry about other pollutants here, I don't cook in the cabin. Any excess water is used to water plants in pots outside. Plywood is a better option to raise the level around the motor housing, plenty of off cuts in the other shed.
Chris
 
Discussion starter · #142 ·
Change of scene. I was pondering the churchyard whilst working on things in the garden and thought I would place some sheep there. I know this used to be common practise in country churchs at least in the 19th century. It was good grazing an helped keep the grass tidy as sheep mow very close. Does anyone know if this still happened in the 1930s?
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View from a distance.
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I just need to make some paths to the door and round the base of the church.
 
Hi Chris,
That's looking very effective indeed.
Am just trying to get started on a church / graveyard module for the Loft here, have most of the models / bits now, just need to finish making some space / tidying up to get going !
In terms of the 1930's question have no idea; but doubt it would have been the same sheep ;) Anyway don't forget Rule 1 - think they make a very effective scene; worst case they could have just strayed into there for a feast :)
Cheers as always, Norm
 
I would place some sheep there. I know this used to be common practise in country churches at least in the 19th century. It was good grazing and helped keep the grass tidy as sheep mow very close. Does anyone know if this still happened in the 1930s?
I wasn't there to see it, but am sure it happened in districts where sheep are or were raised; because it remains current in rural locations: now whether that's intentional or the sheep find their own way in is annother matter. Side Note. In the past a Church Warden was typically elected for an annual term only, and it was a single man in the office at all but the largest parishes: one of the responsibilities was management of that church's financial assets in land, property, business, and the latter often included an animal flock, commonly sheep. All this made the office desireable, as the holder might have his finger in multiple pies, and significant local influence as a result: out of which evolved the elected lay councils of the present.
 
Discussion starter · #145 ·
Thank you for that, I have a vague recollection of seeing sheep in a churchyard here in Suffolk when I was very young over 60 years ago. Memories from young childhood can be misleading though, are you remembering what you really saw or is it a "memory" of what you have read or heard? Having delved into my own family history I know how important the Church Wardens were, not quite the same thing but one of my ancestors was one of the Parish Overseers and left acounts in the Register of his donations to the poor. Hoping to score brownie points?
apart from that, now that it looks to be a bit cooler I hope to get a bit more scenery done soon.
Chris
 
Discussion starter · #146 ·
A little update. I have repaired the wiring to the 3 point motors which I rashly cut through when fitting the turntable into the baseboard. Once I managed to identify each pair it was easy to piece out the wires. The points now work again. The turntable is refusing to go fully round when in a clockwise direction. It did this once before and then "mended" itself!
I have added some figures to the farmyard.
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Will the farmer with his whippet Jack and Westies Dylan and Ellie.
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Will and Margaret his wife feeding the chickens
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A better picture?
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Just to prove that i don't take it too seriously! The evil Count welcoming you in to his castle.
Chris
 
That top photo is very convincing. I thought it was the door to you cabin and that it needed a bit of TLC to get it weather proof.

David
 
Discussion starter · #149 ·
Another little update. I have been making some brick arch/retaining walls for the station approach area. I tried using the download print it yourself option from Scalescenes but made a pig's ear of that. I wasn't in the right frame of mind I think, I have used those for several buildings and they look good. Anyway, I bought some from Scale Model Scenery and have so far made one set and am on the next. I took the picture as a test of my old camera as it didn't want to work in a poorly lit exhibition hall at a Cat Show a week ago. I ended up using my 'phone instead! I found the camera had put itself in a strange metering mode, I changed it to average and it works well again.
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Just round the corner to the left are carriage sidings. I plan to use a row of arches as a low relief background with a town scene background behind them. I should need 4 or 5 kits, that will keep me going for a while!
Chris
 
Another little update. I have been making some brick arch/retaining walls for the station approach area. I tried using the download print it yourself option from Scalescenes but made a pig's ear of that. I wasn't in the right frame of mind I think, I have used those for several buildings and they look good. Anyway, I bought some from Scale Model Scenery and have so far made one set and am on the next. I took the picture as a test of my old camera as it didn't want to work in a poorly lit exhibition hall at a Cat Show a week ago. I ended up using my 'phone instead! I found the camera had put itself in a strange metering mode, I changed it to average and it works well again. View attachment 40036
Just round the corner to the left are carriage sidings. I plan to use a row of arches as a low relief background with a town scene background behind them. I should need 4 or 5 kits, that will keep me going for a while!
Chris
Hi Chris,
Well those initial completed sections look great, sounds like you have quite a few more to do ahead of you as well. Must say you do tend to get into a bit of a flow - have the best part of 30ft worth in the Loft here, of the Metcalfe double arched versions, in various different depths of build, also as a retaining wall to hide a hidden return loop track.
Over the years have also weathered, added greenery & also some posters in the station areas; this took a lot of faffing by doing it at different stages; you might want to do some of that as you go perhaps - if you are thinking of doing such things obviously.
Will yours need to be removable (* the ones here are on a thin ply backboard with hidden magnets to allow removal for access - well that was the plan !); otherwise you can also add greenery along there bottom edges to blend it in too.
Cheers as always, & Happy Modelling, Norm
 
Discussion starter · #151 ·
Hello Norm, Looks like you have more arches than I will need. As it has been a wet day here I completed the next set of three. As you say, once you get in the flow it seems to take less time. I have had to glue the arches in place as these ones are on a curve, the "low relief" ones might be ok free standing or possible velcrowing to the cabin wall/backscene. Once the track is ballasted and with some weeds at the bottom it should look the part. I am trying to think of a way to model ferns. They were a feature of GWR platforms and walls during steam days. Aparently some "escaped" from the Botanic Gardens in Oxford and the moist conditions created by the locos on platform faces etc were ideal and they eventually propagated through the network.
You can probably tell I am a fern fanatic as well!
Chris
 
Busch do a pack of ferns. I believe they are laser cut. If you are skilled in the art of Scherenschnitte you could probably make your own from green coloured paper that you might get from Paperchase or equivalent craft shop.
Here's a link to the Busch ferns on MSL to give an idea of what you might be aiming for.
Busch 1203 Gauge H0 Fern & Mushrooms modellbahnshop-lippe.com

David
 
Discussion starter · #153 ·
I like the ferns, I will buy some soon.
Can anyone advise me regarding Wills loco kits. A lot of several, mostly Southern types are up for sale on Wednesday at my local auctioneers with a reasonable estimate. I have assembled one or two brass kits but am not sure about whitemetal. Any advice will be much appreciated. There is enough there to keep me busy for more than one winter!
Chris
 
Discussion starter · #154 ·
I've taken the plunge with the kits and left a bid on them. Looking at the pictures properly, some of them are more or less completed.
I am making some progress with the carriage siding area of the layout, the retaining arch wall is nearly complete and I have ballasted most of the track. As usual it is a case of one step forward, two steps back as the point leading to the sidiings now won't close fully when set to the main line. It is ok for anything on the main as it is a trailing point but if stock is propelled through some derails. I can't see what is causing this at the moment. i am beginning to think it may have always been like this, I just haven't reversed anything through it. Hey ho, another one of life's challenges!
Here are some pictures including a nice EFE Rail SDJR van I received today.
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I have yet to glue the ballast down, I have heard that some just leave it loose. It does increase the noise when stuck. Ther only problem I can see with leaving it loose is when it comes to cleaning the layout.
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No 771 Sir Sagramore leaving the carriage sidings. Taken with my phone as it is easier to get a low viewpoint this way.
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The MPD with carriage sidings behind. Unfortunately the Lord Nelson is failed. The motion has come away near the cylinders on one side. I have tried super glue to fix it back but after a few minutes running it comes away again. May be I need to try a diferent make of glue and leave it for a few days.
Chris
 
Hi Chris. Can't offer advice on the kits. Tried doing them in my youth and never a success but was woefully short of proper tools which didn't help. Hope you get much enjoyment out of them.
On ballast I've not heard of it being left loose. Would it not get into wheels/motions, points etc and cause derailments?( Could that be the problem with the point you mentioned?)
I know a man who lives on the south coast who can give extensive advice on the subject of ballasting🤣
I had a problem with some loco motion needing reattaching and found 2 part epoxy best.
 
Discussion starter · #156 ·
Thanks for the tip on 2 part epoxy, I will try that. I have glued the ballast down on other sections of the layout. I keep trying to think of another way to do it. I need some new pva as all my glue seems to have "gone off" a bit. I never seem to be able to mix it smoothly 50:50 with water, I always get a few lumps when it has dried. I won't leave it loose as the thought of bits getting in loco mechanisms would be a real pain to say the least. I have left a bid on the Wills models for tomorrow, it is more expensive that way but I can't afford to waste all morning at the auction for one lot. If I get them all well and good.
I checked the point as well as I could yesterday, it is in a bit of an awkward place though. I have a small wire brush from RS Components as part of a set of tools for cleaning/soldering pcbs. I ran this between the point blade and the fixed rail but didn't make much difference. I need to check with a magnifying glass maybe.
Chris
 
Discussion starter · #158 ·
A good day today. The point decided it has mended itself. I looked with a magnifiyer and couldn't see anything in the way of the switch blade. I tried pushing the offending coaches through it and no derailment. I rescued some pva from an old bottle and mixed it with water plus washing up liquid to glue the ballast down. The plant spray bottle from the greenhouse was used to wet it all down first. I still got lumps of undissolve pva, hopefully these will dry clear otherwise I shall have to pick them out. The roadway up to the high level area in the corner is coming on well. I started with the retaining wall on the goods yard side this morning. Here are some pictures.
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I will print some more stone texture paper this evening ready for hte rest of the wall. This has solved the problem of road access to the goods yard, it will come in from the left of the picture. I had orignally planned to have the road on teh same high level as a view blocker but this is better I think.
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From the other side. I will make an embankment on this side curving round the turntable as if the railway cut into the hill when it was built.
The white blobs of pva are visible in the track at the rear.
I didn't win the auction for the kits by the way. I left what I considered a reasonable bid considering the buyer's premium to be added would have been as much as I wanted to spend. They went for ÂŁ50 more than my maximum. I was already thinking that to get them running I would need to install decoders ( wired in ) and some that had been completed used Triang chassis so the wheels would have been on the coarse side. I use Peco code 100 track as I do have some very old items which are about 60 years old. Most are ok but the Triang dean single "Lord of the Isles" doesn't like the slip near the station very much!
I left off modelling at lunch time as I thought I really ought to do some house maintenance. The weather is still pleasant here so I got started on painting the outside. Sometimes the real world rears it's head!
Chris
 
Whose PVA are you using? There shouldn't be any lumps unless the PVA has gone off.

I must ask, does using washing up liquid really work? Any ballasting I've done has all been with a 60/40 mix and nothing else added.
Adding a few drops of washing up liquid reduces surface tension, it acts a surfactant helping the glue mix spread more evenly. It definitely works.
Edit: you only need a tiny drop, too much and the mix will foam and/or weaken the mix.
 
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